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Have Some Madeira       

© JULIAN BRAY

Some people say Madeira has never really shaken off the image of being an island retreat for those in delicate health; a place where the bankrupt old nobility of Europe could safely flee to escape their debts, or a well appointed retirement home for impoverished former colonial servants.

2.   Younger people might even turn up their noses at the thought of a destination with no beaches, and no nightlife: Madeira is definitely not a clubbers paradise.

3.   This all sounds very negative but it is, however, one of Europe's most intriguing and breathtakingly beautiful destinations. The island, a mountainous volcanic landscape carved into scores of deep valleys and ravines, clothed in the luxuriant vegetation that thrives in the frost-free climate.

4.   Hundreds of miles of footpaths run alongside the ingenious network of irrigation canals (called levadas, bringing water from the wet side of the island to the sunny but drier south. Something we might like to try in the UK. Easy to follow, these paths lead you deep into the quiet rural heart of the island, where the agriculture and way of life has little changed over the years and  has yet to catch up with the industrial revolution.

5.   Flowers are Madeira's other main attraction; a whole week can easily be filled visiting it's parks and gardens. Colourful species introduced from South Africa, South America and Asia flourish in every rural front garden and on every urban balcony.

6.   Practically every roadside on the island has been colonised by agapanthus, poinsettias, agaves and bird-of-paradise plants, the markets are full of colourful orchids and many varieties of cut fowers,

7.   The walks, the landscapes and the beautiful verdant countryside, combined with the ever-friendly people and appetising food, makes Madeira a place of immense appeal and a lot can be shoehorned into the all too short a time we have at this port of call.

8.   The Islands Geography
• Set in the eastern Atlantic, the island of Madeira is around 1,000 km from Lisbon and 600 km from Morocco, the nearest mainland.
• Madeira measures 64 km by 23 km that is  1,741 sq km with a  population of 300,000.
• Madeira's nearest neighbour is the island of Porto Santo (population 5,000), which lies 37 km to the northeast. •

9.   The Landscape
• Madeira s the product of volcano eruptions that took place some 20 million years ago. Volcanic peaks are a major feature, several of them rising to more than 1,800m.

10.                     Christopher Columbus described Madeira to Queen Isabella of Spain by crumpling up a piece of paper: apart from the southern coastal plain, the mountainous island is carved into myriad deep valleys and ravines.
• Driving distances are greatly magnified by the steep terrain, necessitating slow progress along the tortuous zigzagging roads.

11.                     We now turn to the Climate
• Madeira's climate is sub-tropical: the southerly altitude ensures warm, frost-free winters and cooling Atlantic winds take the edge off the intense heat of summer.
• Atlantic fronts drop rain or the north side of the island, whereas the south side remains dry and sunny for much of the year.

12.                     An island of stark contrasts, vibrant haunting images and lifestyles. Just imagine an elderly woman carrying a pile of bracken on her head. The foliage hides everything but her legs as she steps uphill with the nimbleness of a mountain goat.

13.                     Two walkers balance along a narrow path, halfway up a cliff-face — two .
bright dots in a vast volcanic landscape. A farmer parks his battered van and uncovers the baskets of fruit he has for sale: papayas, avocados, peaches and strawberries, plus a bucket or two of pink lilies.

14.                     Just a mile or two away, a gentleman of the old school slides a decanter across a polished mahogany table. The wine has an aroma of toasted chestnuts. Languidly a sunbather turns over, and orders another cocktail from the beachside bar. 'Madeira,' as one 19th-century traveller put it, 'ensures almost every European comfort with every tropical luxury.'

15.                     Portugal has owned Madeira for five centuries, and the British have been residents here for some three centuries. Between them they have created a heritage of beautiful gardens, wines fit for the gods, churches filled with fine carving and rare tiles, and museums scattered with Flemish Old Masters and priceless objets d'art.

16.                     The island itself, this 'semi-tropical speck in the Atlantic, some 700km off the west coast of Africa, does the rest. The mild climate and gentle pace may lull you into a dreamy indolence — but if you can rouse yourself for a walk along the water channels that criss-cross the island you will be rewarded by quite another Madeira. What we see of Madeira are simply the highest points of a massive underwater mountain range, towering well over 5,ooom above the sea bed.

17.                     Violent submarine volcanic eruptions pushed the island up through the surface of the Atlantic, around 20 million years ago - the Azores and Canary Islands made their appearance at about the same time-.

18.                     A jagged chain of mountains runs like a backbone through Madeira for some 48km, flattening out at the western end into a high plateau, the Paul da Serra, several kilo- metres across and 1,000m above sea-level. Long ridges (Iombci) separated by deep valleys run on all sides of this central spine.

19.                     Cabo Girão to the west of Funchal, is the second highest sea cliff in the world, with a plunge of 589m to the breakers.

20.                     The highest peak on Porto Santo is Pico do Facho (517m) in the northeast corner, but most of the island is low and flat. Most of the population of 253,045 live on the south side of Madeira, about 90,000 of them in Funchal. Under 5,000 people live permanently on Porto Santo.

The volcanic rock was gouged into an island of high mountains and cliffs. Strong rivers flowing off the mountain tops carved out ravine-like valleys.  Most of Madeira is made up of soft, reddish-brown tufa, with occasional pillars of dark basalt.

21.                     Tufa, as one traveller pointed out, can be cut as smoothly and precisely as cheese. You'll see roads sliced out of vertical cliff-faces, mountains carved into tiny terraces, and goat-sheds scooped out of the hillsides.

22.                     The rock-faces visible on land continue to plummet steeply underwater - to the delight of boys who dive off high cliffs into the sea, and fishermen, who manage a deep-sea haul just a short journey from port.

23.                     Unfortunately for us, Madeira seems to reserve its hardest rocks for the shores.
There is not a single white sandy beach to be seen on the main island; instead, you'll
find yourself swimming off concrete jetties, and gingerly stretching out to dry with the geckos on a lumpy terrain.

24.                     The neighbouring island of Porto Santo makes up for the omission: almost the entire southern coast is one long, uninterrupted, picture - postcard golden strand. One theory is that all the sand off Madeira's beaches was blown here during an enormous volcanic explosion.

25.                     From time to time the Funchal city councillors darkly plot to fetch some of it back to make a beach of their own.

26.                     A little taste of history…keen to strengthen ties with England, as France and Spain were showing disturbing signs of making peace with each other. Dona Luisa offered her daughter Catherine of Bragança as a wife to the newly restored King Charles II.

27.                     Louis 16^th of France had already turned her down, and so Dona Luisa upped the stakes a bit. Catherine came with double the usual royal dowry: solid weights in silver and gold, a concession for trade with Brazil, two million cruzodos, Bombay, Tangier and — it is said —the island of Madeira.

28.                     But the scribe who was writing all this down was, reputedly, a Madeirense who couldn't bring himself to include his home island on the list. He persuaded Dona Luisa to keep Madeira back as an ultimate lure, should King Charles fail to bite.

29.                     Catherine travelled to England with a secret document which added Madeira to her dowry, but she didn't need it. The Merry Monarch jumped at the opportunity of a source of funds for his lavish lifestyle.

30.                     In return he agreed to defend Portugal 'as if it were England itself'.
Madeiran trade went from strength to strength. Portuguese ships were by royal proclamation ordered to call in on the island and take on wine for the colonists in Brazil, thus laying the foundations for the modern Madeiran wine trade.

31.                     Eventually the island became the chief stopover for all ships wanting to stock up on supplies before beginning the long haul across the Atlantic. When King Charles issued his ordinance forbidding exports to 'English Plantations overseas', save for goods leaving English ports in 'English bottoms', he carefully excluded Madeira from the ban .

32.                     This gave local wine merchants a monopoly over trade with America and the West Indies. Madeiran wine became one of the most popular drinks in the New World, and a strong community of British merchants grew up on Madeira.

33.                     They cornered the wine market, expanded into sugar and other trades and were soon leading players in the island's economy.
The British From the end of the 17th century onwards, the British played such an integral role in island affairs that many of them seemed to regard Madeira as a colony rather than foreign territory.

34.                     Though the authorities were often concerned that the British owned too much property on the island, and had their fingers in too many local pies, the relationship between the two communities has, on the whole, been cordial.

35.                     Feelings only became a little strained when British troops were garrisoned on the island, and when an over-zealous pastor tried to convert local catholic Portuguese and there was very nearly a nasty moment when Captain Cook visited the island in 1768.

36.                      The famous explorer, then on his first voyage in the Endeavour, 'battered the fort...by way of resenting an affront that had been offered to the British flag'. Exactly what the nature of the insult is we do not know, as the account was suppressed from official records.

37.                     Later, though, Cook made up for his petulance by going ashore and planting a TulipTree. Dr Hawksworth,the chronicler of the voyage, notes that the British consul received them 'with the kindness of a brother and the liberality of a prince'. (The tree, survived until 1963, when it blew down in a storm.)

38.                     Napoleon and the British Occupations
British forces twice occupied Madeira during the Napoleonic Wars —from July 1801 to January 1802, and again from December 1807 to October 1814.

39.                     They were friendly occupations, aimed at protecting the islands from the French, but the first one caused a diplomatic rumpus as someone had forgot to tip off the Portuguese governor that he was about to be superseded.

40.                     The second occupation was commanded by General William Carr Beresford, who was already quite a hero after campaigns in Egypt, South Africa and the Argentine. Napoleon had tried to persuade the Portuguese to co-operate with the naval blockade of Britain. Portugal refused, and in 1807 French troops marched on Lisbon. The British whisked the Portuguese royal family away to safety in Brazil. Generals Beresford and Wellesley stayed on to deal with the French.

41.                     On Christmas Eve, Beresford arrived in Funchal Bay with a fleet of 24 ships, but soon realized that the island wasn't in need of quite so much protection.

42.                     He left with half his garrison in 1808, though the rest of the troops stayed on until peace was finally made with France - and contributed noticeably to the island's gene pool even today you will see the odd blonde or ginger mophead bobbing along in an otherwise dark haired school crocodile of pupils.

43.                     Napoleon himself called in on Madeira in 1815, on his way to exile in St Helena. He found an unexpected admirer in the then British consul, Henry Veitch. Veitch sold Boney some pipes of excellent wine (the famous Napoleon Madeira) and got into hot water by addressing the ex Emperor as 'Your Majesty').

44.                     He kept the gold louis he received in payment, and buried them behind the foundation stone of the new English Church.

45.                     The British Factory
During the course of the 18th century British merchants came to control the wine trade almost entirely. When the dreaded disease called the noble rot phylloxera struck in the second half of the 19th century, destroying nearly all the vines many merchants moved over to sugar-refining — and soon the British controlled that too.

46.                     Some time during the 18th century (no one is sure when, because all records were destroyed in a massive flood in 1806),the merchants established the British Factory.

47.                     This was the equivalent of a Chamber of Commerce made up of the senior partners of the island's leading British firms, and along the lines that the Portuguese had set up in the 15th and 16th centuries to guard and administer their trading posts abroad.

48.                     For decades, the Factory held sway over the Madeiran British, acting almost like a small colonial government.The factory levied a tax on wine exports and built and financed a church, hospital and cemetery They were a force not to be crossed (as young upstart traders soon learned), and adjudicated in (though sometimes propelled) the feuds that local families waged against one another.

49.                     The Factors also acted as an agent for British merchants, enabling them to buy collectively, so had enormous economic clout on the island. It was finally wound during a depression in the wine trade.

50.                     The remaining factors started the English Rooms, an exclusive club on the seafront in Funchal. Later, as membership thinned out, they had to lower their standards and accept partners from less powerful firms — and even managers — into the fold, and eventually the club closed down altogether.

51.                     Miguelites and Liberals
Even after the defeat of the French in 1814, the Portuguese king remained in Brazil with his family and Beresford stayed on in Lisbon as marshal of the Portuguese army.

52.                     But the army staged a coup, set up a Cortes (parliament) elected by universal male suffrage, and devised a new constitution. Dom Joo returned from Brazil in 1821, content to accept the restricted powers that this constitution imposed — but his younger son, Dom Miguel, had other ideas. 

53.                     When Dom Joo died in 1826, his elder son and heir Dom Pedro IV was still living in Brazil, having been made emperor of what was by then a recently independent territory. Dom Miguel grabbed the opportunity to declare himself absolute monarch of Portugal and began a crackdown on supporters of the new constitution he had always disapproved of.

54.                     Dom Pedro returned to Portugal and bloody battles ensued, in which the British actively took the side of Dom Pedro and the Liberals.

55.                     In 1828 a new Miguelite governor was sent to Madeira together with 1,000 troops. A small British force had landed a few days before to help the Madeirense, but all resistance was quashed.

56.                     Over 150 people were arrested, though many leading liberal figures were able to escape to Britain on the frigate Alligator. Dom Miguel was eventually beaten in 1834, and exiled to Austria. The monarchy weathered badly the political turbulence and economic recession that followed the rebellion. Finally, in 1910 Dom Manuel  fled to Britain and Portugal was proclaimed a republic.

57.                     Moving on: The Twentieth Century
On 23 July 1905, the Paris edition of the New York Herald carried a report headed:
'German Company Plans to Make Madeira an Up-to-Date Resort'. Snappy headline for the time perhaps, but there is a sinister twist to this tale.

58.                     In return for a promise to build a sanatorium and  several hospitals and further promises to treat 40 TB patients a year free, the Madeira Actien Gesellschaft,— by arrangement with the Portuguese government —was empowered to take over all business concerns on the island. The British were furious.

59.                     When plans for some of the hospitals were exposed as really being designs for a series of hotels and holiday camps, the Portuguese realized that they were being colonized by the Germans through the back door and promptly withdrew the concession.

60.                     In 1914, all German property on Madeira was confiscated. Germany declared war on Portugal in 1916 after German ships had been impounded in Lisbon harbour.

61.                     Madeira got off fairly lightly during the war although Funchal was twice shelled by German U-boats, in 1916 and 1917.

62.                     The decline in trade during the First World War, the Prohibition in America and the disappearance of the madeira-drinking classes after the Bolshevik Revolution in Russia knocked a large hole in the Madeiran economy.

63.                     On the mainland, times were not much better. The new Portuguese republic began to flounder—there were no less than 45
different governments between 1910 and 1926.

64.                     Shortly after a military coup in 1926, Dr Salazar became minister of finance. By 1932 he was prime minister and he remained a virtual dictator until leaving office after a stroke in 1968 - although he rebuilt the economy, his regime became increasingly cruel and repressive.

65.                     In 1974, after a bloodless coup, his successor Dr Marcello Caetano was overthrown and so the basis of the modern state of Portugal was finally established.

66.                     In 1931 a dispensation which became known as the Hunger Law gave a monopoly to a small group of local bakers or millers. This not only caused a rise in the price of bread, but had a domino effect on investors and companies throughout the Madeiran economy, which led eventually to the collapse of the island's two main banks.

67.                     Thousands lost their savings.
the mills were attacked and a general strike broke out. Lisbon sent troops, but soldiers defected, joining the local garrison and a group of 300 political prisoners (who had been deported from the mainland a few months previously) staged a coup.

68.                     General Sousa Dias, one of the deportees, was declared dictator. Many British residents fled aboard the passing Edinburgh Castle and left the island. Others holed up in the luxury hotels around Reid's, protected by a small group of fusiliers and soldiers that had hurried over from Gibraltar.

69.                     A punitive force arrived from Lisbon at the end of April, and the rebels were soon defeated. Some of the ringleaders sought asylum with the British, but most of those who had been involved in the fighting, including Dias himself, were imprisoned and taken back to Portugal.

70.                     From that point on, Madeira kept her grumbles to herself, Portugal remained neutral during the Second World War—though once again the decline in trade and tourism was bad for the island economy.

71.                     The 1974 Revolution was greeted with rejoicing, even though it too meant a
blow to tourism. Local supporters of Salazar made a quick break for Brazil, new political parties sprang up.

72.                     But within a year civil war loomed. On Madeira, the mainland, was concern about growing communist influences. On the mainland a counter-coup was defeated in 1975, and in 1976 a new constitution was adopted.

73.                     Under this constitution Madeira was given special status within Portugal as an  Autonomous Political Region.
This gave a massive boost to the tourist industry and established a Free Trade Zone.

74.                     So from what some may initially say is not a clubbers paradise, you only have to scratch the surface of this exotic location to uncover a whole wealth of treasures.   All in all, this is an island of mystery and intrigue, it has many attractions to suit all tastes and some beautiful scenic walks - simply follow the levadas , the water canals to discover the real country.

75.                     Ladies and Gentlemen I'll be happy to take a few questions ….

 

 

Ole The Wonder of Spain - VIGO

© Julian Bray 2009

1.    Our cruise takes us to northern Spain, the bit that nestles just above Portugal, to give the region it s true name Galicia - and the splendid port of VIGO. The biggest fishing port in Northern Spain and sometime home to the Spanish Navy. In our approach to Vigo, we steam over what are fabled to be the resting places of dozens of sunken Spanish galleons, some stuffed with treasure.

 

2.    It was in 1702, that a British fleet of some 25 ships found out that the treasure fleet from South America was in port with a French escort. The British sank twenty and captured 11 of the treasure fleet. The gold and bullion was still on board simply because in those days only Cadiz had official permission to offload valuable cargoes from the colonies.

 

3.    There have been many diving expeditions to recover the gold but so far none has been found. You can raised a glass to this victory in London, as its no coincidence that Vigo Street, is so named in celebration of this victory !

 

4.    We dock in VIGO, at an attractive setting near the mouth of a deep navigational channel spanned by a high suspension bridge which mirrors in design, if not scale the one in San Francisco. Vigo Bay is over 20 miles long and about 3 miles wide with very deep water. It is said that the worlds shipping fleet could be safely anchored within this Bay.

 

 

5.     Where we tie up is just a short walk, from what was during the reign of King Philip the 4^{th, (}1621-1665) and still is - the hub of the fishing quarter and one time centre of the old town of Vigo, the Ribera del Berbes.

 

6.    Vigo has a population of around 300 thousand, Market day is on a Sunday, it isn't noted for its old buildings but where they do exist, take a closer look at the upper part of the fascades the relief designs, sculptures and decorative inlays. They usually relate to their former maritime use and heritage.

 

7.    Most of Vigo's public buildings date from 1860 to 1890, truly a golden and prosperous time for the City. Still a very important Spanish fishing, commercial and industrial port supplying vast quantities of sardines to the whole of Europe. In bygone days Vigo was an important steamer port filled with passengers bound for Tilbury, London, Portugal and South American destinations.

 

8.    Throughout Vigo - and it is built on hilly terrain - so expect some climbing, you'll find striking modern sculptures, Oliveira's horses Statue in the Plaza de Espania, and others dotted around, seemingly in no logical sequence, but I am assured a committee did meet discuss and approve the sighting of these works, here is a taster for you.

 

9.    It has a lively and extensive shopping area, with most of the major European chains present and a whole host of specialist stores. Get in early almost as soon as we dock, as Spain observes the afternoon siesta so most shops close for a very long lunch from 1pm to 5pm but are open later, in fact long after we have steamed away.

 

10.                       Shoes and leatherwork are in abundance, and there are bargains to be had. Leather jackets around 30 per cent cheaper than in the UK, C&A may have long disappeared from the UK, but is alive and well all over Europe - for those who don't know C&A it's a kid of cheap but quality NEXT. A few street entertainers provide an amusing distraction and will also sell you a CD compilation of their music.

 

11.                       All the attractions in town are within walking distance and when you leave the ship the local chamber of commerce will be waiting with a catalogues and maps showing the various shopping locations. The Harrods of Spain is El Cortes Ingles, and they will offer you a free coffee voucher, along with a map.

 

12.                       If you are adept at window shopping, then take up the offer, if you run wild with the credit cards, they also do a personal export service, even to the extent of shipping them back home for you and will also help you recover the local value added tax if the goods are being taken out of the European Community, simply ask for this service at the time of making your purchase.

 

13.                       I should add that Royal Caribbean has a shopping promotion and discount programme, you should be getting a copy of the discount leaflet in your stateroom the night before we visit. Bear in mind current stringent flight security hand luggage restrictions, so any gifts or packages will have to be secured in hold or cargo bay luggage. Luggage handlers at airports are not the most careful of people, so the personal export shipping scheme looks increasingly attractive.  

 

 

 

 

 

14.                       Often in the back streets, some gems come to light, this is a delightful bar just behind the main shopping street.  Take note in Spain if the drinking straws placed on a bar are black, it's a discreet sign the bar favours a gay clientele and if the entrance has a simple CLUB sign over the door. Be cautioned, it's a not a club as we know it, but somewhere ladies of the night ply their trade, both day and night!

 

15.                       When I was last here, I thought that the BBC's Mastermind Host and Radio 4 Today programme presenter John Humphries had suddenly quit broadcasting and taken up Spanish politics. I sent the picture to him - we worked together some years ago, instantly back came an e-mail - "Clearly an imposter who has taken a flat iron to his face - he has none of my wrinkles - I might however use him to double for me on public appearances!"  

 

16.                       The oldest part of the town. Banjo del Berbes, is near the port and used to be the sailors' quarter. Its cobbled alleys are teeming with bars, admittedly busier at the weekends, here you can find some of the finest tapas bars, which serve mainly seafood. The Mercado de Ia Piedra, near the port, sells reasonably priced fish and shellfish — particularly oysters.

 

17.                       Just immediately straight over the main road from our berth is a steep cobbled stepped incline, its worth taking as a whole street of open air oyster bars and fish restaurants are to be found, might make an ideal last long lunch stop before rejoining the ship. 

 

 

18.                       Watch the oysters landed a few hours earlier being prepared right in front of you and down a plateful, along with a glass or two of fine chilled Spanish Rioja white wine. Or perhaps a few grilled sardinas. If you go earlier in the day; Its fun watching the hustle and bustle of the fish market and who knows we might even find our executive chef here!

 

19.                        Three forts guarded the town and today the citadel remains known as El Castro built by Philip the 4^th features a park which gives a panoramic view of the city, bay and surrounding areas.

 

20.                       The fortress itself is located on a hill at the top of the City above the port area. The municipal Museum is also worth a visit, just a mile further on from the Citadel, look for sightseeing points at Mount Alba and La Madroa. The zoo is also nearby. 

 

 

21.                       Galicia's Vigo can justly claim to be the gateway to the Northern Spanish countryside and some fascinating old towns such as Santiago de Compostelo, the regions major tourist attraction. Under 70 miles inland, the town is the venue for the famous cathedral which is reputed to hold the remains of St James and decorated in gold reputedly looted and stolen from the Aztecs.  

 

22.                       Legend has it that after the death of Christ, James, Christ's Apostle, a fisherman by trade, visited Spain to preach the gospel. He later died in Judea at the hands of King Herod. James's' body being brought back to Spain for burial. However the body was lost in transit and only discovered in the 9^th Century when a hermit noticed a bright star shining over a particular hill.

 

 

23.                       This led to an altar and the grave of St James' being found, a church - the Moors destroyed the sanctuary in the 10^th Century - was built over the tomb which became a place of pilgrimage, and as a result a town grew up around the church later to become the cathedral.  In the middle ages over half a million pilgrims a year travelled there from all over Europe, many taking the route over the Pyrenees Mountains.

 

24.                       Even today if you can prove you have covered the last 100 kilometers or 62 miles on foot, bicycle or horseback, an impressive embossed certificate is given to pilgrims. I'm not suggesting you try this during our brief Port of Call, but you might like to try for one at a future date.  The next mass pilgrimage will take place in the Holy year designated 2010, during the last holy year 2004, over 170 thousand pilgrims made the journey.

 

25.                       The numbers possibly helped by a declaration from the Pope that all pilgrims to Santiago would halve their time in purgatory, if they went on a Holy year - when the feast of St James 25 July - falls on a Sunday the reward is much greater, with the Pope offering a full remission - a plenary indulgence.   

 

26.                        Much of the region has a rustic quality about it, inland farms are split into plots too small or too steep that tractors are unable to work the soil. Oxen and horses are used for ploughing, the grain being stored in attractive looking pillared granaries called Horr-e-os. You'll find old granite built villages with traditional stone manor houses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

27.                       The Galician coast features a number of Rias, fjord-like inlets which provide for excellent bathing and good fishing. The official language used on most signs is Gallego, it borrows phrases from and is similar in many ways to the language of its neighbour Portugal, bordering Galicia to the south.

 

28.                       The Celtic connection with this region is further reinforced when you consider that the favourite musical instrument in these parts is - the bagpipes!  

 

29.                       Traveling beyond Vigo here in no particular order are a few sights that I think are highly representative of this delightful region and many of these places are easily accessible from Vigo by public transport, car hire or even shared taxi, but for the latter negotiate the round trip price before you set out and be certain to include the waiting time at the destination. Allow ample time for your return journey to the ship, as the Legend will usually leave on time, with or without you!

 

30.                       A word on public transport Vigo is well served and a bus stop is right opposite the steamer terminal, you can also catch a double deck open top tourist bus which takes you on a fairly comprehensive circular sightseeing route of the city. A taped descriptive commentary audio system is usually available. So what about attractions outside of VIGO…

 

31.                           9 Pontevedra A delightful old town, backed by green hills. It has a network of cobbled alleyways and small squares surrounded by flower filled balconies, granite arcades and some excellent tapas bars. To the south of the old town is the impressive gothic Convento de Santo Domingo, a museum containing Roman and early Galician tombs and artifacts.

 

32.                       On the Praza de la Lena, a small shaded square, two 18th century mansions form the Museo de Pontevedra, said to be one of the finest museums in Galicia. Exhibits feature gold bracelets, torques and other bronze age treasures of Celtic origin.

 

33.                       If you visit, don't miss the collection of 15^th century Spanish primitive paintings and works by zurbaran and Goya. On the top floor is the museums prize exhibit, a rare collection of drawings and paintings by Alfonso Castelao, a 20^th Century Galacian artist, writer and nationalist. The subject matter graphically shows the misery endured by the locals during the Spanish Civil War.  

 

34.                          7 Padron Set on the Rio Ulla, and known for its piquant green peppers, legend has it that the boat carrying the body of St James to Galicia arrived here. The actual mooring stone or PADRON, lies below the altar of the church, by the bridge. In those days Padron was a major sea port until it silted up.

 

35.                           11 Baiona That worthy explorer Christopher Columbus caused one of the caravels from his fleet to arrive at this small port on 10^th March 1493, bringing the very first news of the discovery of the New World. Roll on the years and Baiona sited on a broad bay is a highly popular holiday resort. The harbour still has a small fleet of fishing boats jostling alongside an even larger fleet of pleasure boats. In the pretty church you'll find a mix of Romanesque and Gothic.

 

 

36.                           13 Tui - TUY - This delightful town is on the very frontier with Portugal. To the south of VIGO, it stands on a hillside above the Rio Mino. The old streets curve gently upwards towards the old quarter. On top of the hill, is a 13^th century cathedral, built in the style of a fortress, bristling with towers and battlements as Spain and Portugal were during the Middle Ages frequently at war.

 

37.                       Star features in the Cathedral are the cloister, choir stalls and a richly decorated west porch. No too far away, you'll come across the Iglesia de San Telmo dedicated to the patron Saint of Fishermen, the baroque ornamentation having a distinct Portuguese feel about it. Below the cathedral is an iron bridge built by Gustave Eiffel in 1884, his other work in the centre of Paris, the Eiffel Tower is probably better known!  

 

38.                       There really is a lot of history all around this region, the pace of life outside of Vigo, is relaxed and the people are fiercely independent and proud. They revere their heritage and after fishing, tourism is an important contributor to the economy.

 

39.                        A word on credit cards. American Express and Diners are hardly recognised except in very expensive outlets, so ensure you have VISA or MasterCard to hand. ATM's or cash machines work on these and LINK networks and have an English Language button, but will attract a 5 euro commission charge, which can either be included or in addition to the amount you withdraw. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

40.                        Medical services in Spain are the most expensive in Europe so if you have an European medical health card, the replacement for the E111 document, be certain to take it with you in addition to details and telephone contact information for your travel health insurance provider.

 

41.                        I have no need to tell you, in these security conscious times, to keep your personal documents safe and under no circumstances part with your passport or let your credit card out of your sight - by this I mean in a restaurant go up to the cash desk with your card and watch them swipe it through or have them bring the wireless remote terminal to your table, this will prevent any possibility of cloning off the information and subsequent hits on your account!

42.                       But back to Northern Spain, travelling through the interior, you'll find that life has changed very little over the centuries, it is peaceful and relaxing. The Rio Baixas, slightly to the north of VIGO the southern part of Galicias west coast has many sheltered coves and sandy beaches. Superb seafood in great variety and abundance is available everywhere, in many tapas bars, beach cafes and restaurants, cooked or grilled to perfection.

 

43.                          We cannot omit A Coruna from our journey. This busy port waved goodbye to Felipe the seconds doomed Armada as it sailed from here to England in 1588.   Now the elegant city centre, which is neatly set on a headland stands up well against the sprawling industrial suburbs.

 

44.                       You'll also see Europs oldest working lighthouse, The Torre de Hercules originally built by the Romans and rebuilt in the 18^th century, has all of 242 steps. The old part of town is still in the hands of the military, so expect to see army jeeps negotiating the narrow streets.

 

45.                       The sea promenade of La Marina is lined with tiers of balconies each completely enclosed with glass against the strong winds, hence the it is often referred to as the City of Glass. There are several excellent Romanesque churches and the striking jardin de san Carlos has the tomb of the English General Sir General John Moore, who was killed in battle by the French.

 

46.                          We've now explored Galicia, but what about Spain in general… Without a doubt, whole areas of the charismatic country has been rapidly developed, the Costa del Sol is overrun with tourist property development but Galicia remains largely untouched.

 

47.                       The green hills give the clue, wonderful ambient weather in summer with well above average rainfalls. The winters are however very cold and wet. The Galician economy relies on maritime activities and heavy industry, with tourism bringing up the rear.

 

48.                       It is however possible with climate change and ever improving communications and transport infrastructure that northern Spain could in a short time be the new Costa del Sol, rather as the Murcia region around Alicante is currently becoming, for example in Murcia a couple of years ago a new build 2 bed fully furnished apartment could be purchased off plan for under 100 thousand US dollars, this year the price has shot up by 30 percent. This has to be the interesting prospect for Northern Spain.    

 

 

49.                       Ladies and gentlemen that brings us to the closing remarks and I'll be happy to answer a few questions or perhaps meet you in the bar later, Once again it's been my pleasure and if you see me around do say hallo.   Thank you. 

 

1.   The Splendour of the Canary Islands          

:2.   We are in for a treat, what a brilliant cruise this is, so let us see if we can add some further magic to the experience. The Canary Islands lie near the northern coast of Africa and are designated a region or department of Spain.

 

3.   There are seven large islands: Tenerife, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro and a cluster of smaller islands.

 

4.   Each of the islands has its own breathtaking, distinctive character and rugged charm. These range from sandy beach coastlines whilst along the western and northern coasts of Gran Canaria are many cliffs and steep rock faces.

 

5.   We will examine in details our  ports of call and bear in mind, that each individual island has its own variation in terms of culture, landscape, flora and fauna. Take plenty of film or digital storage media as your camera will be busy, off the beaten track there is a lot to take in and as always so little time…

 

6.   Perhaps the most distinctive feature and something right out of science fiction and space movies is the volcanic black sands and the slightly star wars inspired volcanic scenery. The landscapes are dotted with a range of craters and cones. The most striking example is that of Mount Teide which at an imposing 3,718 metres is Spains highest mountain and well worth seeing.

 

7.   Landscapes apart there is a lot to do and see, amazing sub-tropical plants and flowers; a breathtaking array of fine arts and pottery. Look also for the distinctive Canary Islands lace. Lace making has been carried on here for many generations. If you are feeling active, the islands host numerous sports festivals and golf club hire is available at most of the golf courses on the islands.

 

8.   There is also plenty of sailing, surfing, cycling. The islands have an amazing history and even feature on early Roman maps. They were probably inhabited by people from North Africa as long ago as 3500 BC; however it was only after the demise of the Roman Empire that the islands were first visited by Europeans around about the 14^th century.

 

9.   The climate can best be described as an endless early summer , the latitude corresponds to a desert climate, however as they lie in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, and swept by the trade winds, the Canary islands enjoy an almost perfect year round climate.

 

10.   The weather is usually dry sometimes windy with a year round average temperature in excess of 20 degrees - in areas of higher ground, the temperature is lower but still very comfortable.

 

11.   During Summer months expect temperatures of 25 to 35 degrees and seven to ten hours sunshine a day. Local weathermen say there is an average of 300 days of sunshine a year.  

 

12.   Much of what can be said about the Canaries in the time we have allotted, can be attributed to Lanzarote, but can generally be applied to the other islands, where cultural and physical differences can be identified these will be covered.

13.   But just a brief cautionary note, on tourism safety.

14.   This not only applies to the Canaries but to all ports of call or destinations these days. On the whole the Canaries enjoy a stable and friendly environment and warmly welcomes visitors, an essential and highly valued part of their economy.

15.   Please only take as much money as you will need for the day, if you need more then distribute it around your party

16.   Keep it in a Money belt, or a secure fastened inside pocket is best

17.   Don't take all your credit cards, ideally just one, leave the rest in the stateroom safe or with the Pursers Office.

18.   Ensure you have expiry dates and all other credit card numbers written down on a list held back in your cabin and know who to contact should they be lost or stolen.

19.   Take a second means of identification on your land based trip, ideally with a picture for example the UK picture driving licence

20.   If you are involved in an incident or have something stolen report it at once to the police, obtain a receipt and a crime reference number

21.   On no account sample or get involved in Drugs at any price. In some jurisdictions the penalties are more than exceptionally severe. It simply isn't worth it.

22.   Ensure a copy of the machine readable picture page of your passport is left with the pursers office and that your companion also has a copy and vica versa

23.   Ensure your passport is in good condition, if it appears to be tampered with, you may be stopped and detained.

24.   Do not part with or leave your passport with anyone for security or as a deposit.

25.   Distraction thefts: a patch of mud appears on your jacket as if from nowhere, a kindly stranger points to it and tries to help remove it. His unseen accomplice has by this time taken your wallet or dipped into a handbag. The neat ones also slide the Rolex off your wrist…

26.   If you need consular or embassy assistance, most hotels, tour operators and police have the local contact number. They usually however work normal business hours and have an answer phone service outside of those hours, which will usually direct you to an emergency on call number - but don't bank on it!

27.    And a warning about holiday club street touts, unfortunately run by brits. There is a shady outfit called Carpe Diem Resort, they handout free lottery style scratch cards on the street, and will actively befriend you the holidaymaker.

28.   Guess what you will always win! The lucky winners are invited to collect their winnings from an office, but in reality there is no prise just a sales presentation which will last for hours and hours or until you hand over money about £3,000, yes three thousand ponds or 4,500 dollars and possibly sign up to a mortgage loan secured on your house in exchange for books of beautifully colour printed but  totally worthless vouchers.

29.   They have been exposed so many times but the scam goes on and people still hand over their cash to these people       

30.   Finally, If you are not on an organised shore excursion, allow plenty of time to return to the ship, which will leave on time, with or without you. Arranging your own transport to the next port of call can be very expensive….

31.   But back to the Canaries, how has this all evolved:

32.   Cesar Manrique, then living in New York back in the mid 1970's, created the Art, Culture and Tourism centres of the Council of Lanzarote and the Islands generally owe an enormous debt of gratitude to his foresight and vision.

33.   Cesar born on the Islands, started a detailed correspondence from New York and literally bombarded everyone and anyone who would listen and had influence; with his ideas for a development plan which would not only take care of infrastructure, communications and town planning issues but also conserving nature and preserving the aesthetic values to be found on the island.

 

34.   This resulted into the sustained development plan. He was to see his ideas put into operation when he retuned to the island in 1966. Architecture to fit in with this overall vision was high on Cesars list and without delay he set about designing and creating many of the architectural icons you will find on the island. 

 

35.   He started what can only be called space projects which combined elements of landscape, architectural, plastic and design elements.   A year after the death of the artist in 1993 UNESCO declared Lanzarote to be The World Reserve of the Biosphere. What a timely tribute to this visionary son of the islands.

 

36.   Here's an interesting experiment - Drop a cupful of cold water into a hole in the ground, and due to what is termed magmatic camera, some three kilometres deep, this becomes a geyser of boiling steam, in seconds, as the temperature encountered exceeds 200 degree centigrade on the surface. 

 

37.   The architectural complex of the Mountains of Fire designed by Cesar Manrique is also worth visiting where the building covered with volcanic rock and glass mystically blends into its volcanic lunar surroundings.

 

38.   Arrive or leave the park from Yaiza and you can take a thankfully short camel ride on the south side Timanfaya. The dromedary was until around 50 years ago the main form of transportation on the island.

 

39.   Jameo describes the part of a volcanic tube but where the roof has fallen in - possibly due to weight or an accumulated gas explosion. Take two of these spectacular natural features and you have the shell for the construction of yet another Cesar Manrique masterpiece Jameos del Agua, the very first tourist centre in Lanzarote.

 

40.   Started in 1966 and finally completed in 1976, nothing moves quickly here, inside expect to find a natural lake of clear water, controlled by the ebb and flow of the adjacent ocean.

 

41. Lanzarote

42.   Lanzarote is just 70 land miles from the African coast and the most easterly of the islands, it measures 37 miles long and 12 miles wide and is considered to be the largest island in the group.

 

43.   During the 18^th and 18^th Century volcanic eruptions created an almost lunar landscape. This is where Planet of the Apes was filmed. The dry climate and total lack of erosion helps ensure there has been little change since those times.

 

44.   If you are looking for white sandy but sometimes busy beaches try the Playa Blanca and the Playa Papagayo. You won't find any high rise buildings or roadside poster boards, planning and development is thankfully still carefully controlled. A popular attraction is Castillo de San Gabriel, first built in 1574 to defend the Harbour.

 

45.   However it was destroyed 12 years later by the Algerian pirate Morato Arraez . It was then built in 1599 and used by the military right up until the 1950's. It still has a purpose and is a museum.

 

46.   UNESCO has declared the entire island a biosphere reserve. In the centre of Lanzarote you'll find the mountains of fire - maintained as a National Park. The volcanic heat is still near the surface and of such an intensity that dry straw combusts in seconds or - a steak will grill to perfection.

 

47.   If you can get on with that most objectionable of beasts - the camel, consider taking a camel ride around the volcanoes. The camels are not just for visitors they traditionally worked on farms, all over the islands. 

 

48.   Travelling to the south of the island, you'll find the beaches of Papagayo, the cliffs and Famara beach are to the west, to the north is an array of volcanic tubes and the los Verdes Cave.

 

49.   Another key attraction is the work of Cesar Manrique, a 20^th century artist, designer, sculptor and architect. Cesar has materially influenced the islanders and taught them to appreciate their architecture the predominate themes being white walls, green windows and unique chimney stacks.

 

50.   His work is to be found all over the island including the monument to the peasant or the much better sounding Monumento al Campesino.

 

51.   Arrive or leave the park from Yaiza and you can take a thankfully short camel ride on the south side Timanfaya. The dromedary was until around 50 years ago the main form of transportation on the island.

 

52.   Jameo describes the part of a volcanic tube but where the roof has fallen in - possibly due to weight or an accumulated gas explosion. Take two of these spectacular natural features and you have the shell for the construction of yet another Cesar Manrique masterpiece Jameos del Agua, the very first tourist centre in Lanzarote. As we mentioned earlier they were started in 1966 and finally completed in 1976, nothing moves quickly here, inside expect to find a natural lake of clear water, controlled by the ebb and flow of the adjacent ocean.

 

53.   Look for tiny, albino and totally blind crabs living in the surreal environment, known locally as Jameitos and taken up as a design feature with a variety of acrylic art installations which curiously look totally at home and part of this astonishing forum.

 

54.   But we said two volcanic tubes, walk through a corridor and you enter the second chamber from Chico to Grande, a pool of emerald water plays host to some exotic and lush vegetation. It is also the home to the Festival of Visual Music of Lanzarote.

 

55.   The stage is set inside a section of the volcanic tube which runs for several kilometres until it finally connects with the sea. Be prepared to have all of your senses delightfully assaulted over and over again. All of the tourist centres are worth visiting and if volcanoes are your thing then try to make time for The House of Volcanoes where an impressive multi media audio visual exhibition and temperature measurement experiments will delight.

 

56.   The last project masterminded by Mr Lanzarote, Cesar Manrique was the cactus garden finished in 1991. By 1973, the artist had already restored the mill marking the boundary of the complex. The interior of the mill shows how in bygone times, 'millo' flour or Gofio as it is known in the canaries is produced.

 

57.   Semi submerged volcanic rocklike formations, now provide the focal setting for a garden and yes, you are right it could only feature cacti. Some ten thousand different varieties from four thousand, four hundred species gathered from all over the world await you. 

 

58.   Our next surprise is the Castle of San José built between 1776 and 1779, not only to give advance warning of pirates arriving by sea but also to provide local employment. By royal proclamation King Charles the third, ordered the construction dubbed by the locals The fortress of Hunger, it was later to be used as a gunpowder warehouse, after the threat of pirates had receded before falling into disuse and dereliction for over one hundred years. 

 

59.   Enter Cesar manipulated the council into the transformation if this icon into a museum of modern art, he had removed a century of soil and dust from the stone parade ground, cleaned and added a front esplanade and completed this with a scattering of modern sculptures. A restaurant overlooks the sea, the spectacular vista seen at sea level through huge glass windows rising from the floor to the ceiling.

 

60.   At the risk of cultural overload, our journey on the island of Lanzarote takes us to the House Museum and the Peasant Museum. Take a closer look at the Peasant Monument or the monument to fertility. An imposing and majestic tower of cubic forms set on a rock plinth.

 

61.   But wait, step back, what we really have is a variety of water tanks taken from old fishing boats welded end on end with spacers in between, a visual joke from our old friend Cesar Manrique but totally in keeping with his overall vision for the island. 

 

62.   Meanwhile The House Museum owes its origins to a restored small island village enlarged by Cesar, and the name suggests it really does celebrate the Lanzarote house, you'll find a collection of utensils, work implements and artefacts the islanders have used over time.

 

63.   Further on are craft workshops, featuring ceramics and embroidery. The restaurant showcases local produce and a menu which samples local traditional cooking. And if you really want to keep your mojo working you've come to the right island. 

 

64.   Mojo is the traditional local sauce made from a mixture of oil, vinegar, garlic and several different spices, depending on the style of the sauce. Red, picon or green. Fish and seafood in general plays a major part of the local diet as does cooked meats including goat and leg of pork slow oven roasted.

 

65.   Not forgetting sweet potatoes, potatoes, and a variety of roasted cereals. Cheese making on the island centres on goat milk, but also varieties with added cow and sheep milk are to be found. Smoked, plain, mild, mature, lightly acidic with a little experimentation, you'll find several that will suit your own taste. 

66. La Palma

 

67.   Locally known as the pretty isle that is La Palma, ideal if you are seeking scenic beauty, tranquillity and local colour. Not really the place for a bucket and spade, sun and sand style holiday. Rising up sharply from the sea and literally towering over La Palma at 2,426 metres that's 7,957 ft - is Roque de los Muchachos, the home to several major international astrophysical observatories, Santa Cru de la Palma is the islands main town and port, peppered with old churches, fine houses and cobbled streets, many of the building date back to the 16^th century.

 

68.   The Cally O'Daly is as Irish as is sounds and fondly remembers an Irish Banana Trader. A must as a photo opportunity is the real scale that is full size replica in concrete of the Santa Maria Columbus's famous flagship proudly standing at the end of the Plaza Alameda.

 

69.    If you can make your way up a twisting mountain road, south west of Santa cruse over the mountains and it will need some form of transport to do this, you come across El Paso right in the middle of the island, a village known for its silk production and hand - rolled cigars. Almond terraces abound and you'll find vineyards of southern Palma dotted amongst areas of solidified volcano lava.    

70. Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura,

71.   Isn't it amazing just how diverse the beautiful the Canaries seem to be… It's not just the scenery but also friendliness of the people. For years they have valued, developed and nurtured tourism and largely it has displaced fishing and subsistence agriculture as the mainstay of the economy.

72.  
In addition, the hotel sector has latched onto the conference and convention business and in many respects is way ahead, in terms of marketing and promotion, than their colleagues on mainland Spain. But how does all this impact on our brief visits…

 

73.   Fuerteventura, has a permanent and well trained hospitality industry, they are geared up for volume and have resident firms who are expert in every form of leisure pursuit, they work closely with the authorities and as you would expect for a small island race every one is everyone elses cousin.

 

74.   It is their aim to make your vacation experience one of the best, they simply work very hard at it, but you would never know it. These are a proud people and if you get good service tell them they appreciate it, but don't be surprised if the compliment results in you being presented with a glass of wine, well some of the times.

 

75.   Golden drifts of sand, like fine-spun silk, ripple towards the sparkling shore. Goats are herded across arid plains dotted with windmills. And long-dead volcanoes, scarred and deformed, pierce the cloudless sky Just 50 miles from Saharan Africa, the island of Fuerteventura has a breathtaking, barren beauty.

76.   Despite the volcanic terrain, it has some of the best beaches in the Canary Islands — miles and miles of largely deserted sand. Guaranteed sunshine and little rain make it a great year-round port of call.
Resort development is restrained, compared with neighbouring islands but there is still plenty to keep couples, families and water sports enthusiasts happy.

77.   Visitors from the Spanish mainland swell numbers in July and August. Although prices are slightly higher than mainland Spain, visiting here is still good value.

78.   The east coast offers safe swimming, while the wild, west coast is renowned for its surf breaks. There are sheltered coves in or around all the main resorts. On more exposed beaches, consistent trade winds produce world- class windsurfing conditions. If sunbathing becomes a little too bracing here, it is possible to shelter in the semi-circular, dry-stone wind shelters scattered along the shore. The island can be toured in a day and the excellent roads make driving easy. The parched interior is littered with interesting hamlets.

79.   Where to eat

80.   El Tren (928 537093), on the harbour, offers fish and seafood dishes from £8.40.
For rustic  Canarian cuisine, try Tio Bernabé (928 535895). Main courses from £7.
Exquisitely flavoured meat and fish and a great wine list make the tiny Bodeguita El Andaluz (676 705878) a popular choice.

81.   Yarnatori (928 536444), at the Atlantis Bahia Real Grand, is a stylish teppan-yaki restaurant and sushi bar. Four-course set menus start at £18.80. Sushi from £3.50 for two pieces.

82.   What to do
Children's entertainment Baku Water Park (618 308818) has a dizzying array of flumes, chutes and water- slides. Open daily lOam-5pm; adults £12.50, children £8.40, under 4's are free.
Diving
Corralejo has dive sites to suit both novice and master. Expect to see sea urchins, anemones and plenty of colourful fish among the volcanic rocks. Dive Center Corralejo (928 535906) offers single dives from £30 (including kit).
Windsurfing
Ventura Surf (928 866295, www.ventura-surf.com) offers tuition and equipment hire. An introductory 90-minute lesson costs  around £35 . Only, no credit cards.

83. Tenerife,

 

84.   Twenty degrees in winter and twenty five degrees during the summer, ideal temperatures for most of the year and that is where we start exploring Tenerife. Over 2,000 square kilometres and a population of 665,000.

 

85.    Make no mistake this is an exotic destination, and well able to cope with us the occasional visitor. The largest of the islands and every type of terrain and countryside you could wish for from bays with exotic black volcanic sand beaches to valleys covered with banana plantations.

86.   Traditional or modern, walks through historical sites such as La Laguna, declared a World heritage site by UNESCO are a must. Tenerife means snowy mountain, it is a triangular land mass and rises steeply on all sides and neatly creates two climatic zones.

87.   Damp with lush vegetation in the north, and in the south - sunny and arid. The contrasting zones in such a small area is striking. The black volcanic sands on some beaches can be off putting for casual holidaymaking swimmers, but for those in the know This is ideal as it helps keep numbers down.  

 

88.   We started by saying this is a great cruise adventure and the Canaries have a lot to offer, the people are friendly and welcoming, the towns and villages are a delight and the weather is always welcoming. Ladies and gentlemen, that is the conclusion of this presentation  on the splendour of the Canary Islands and I'll be happy to answer your questions and remember if you see me around the ship just say hello!    

89.   These lectures will take place at the same time every day we are at sea right here in the theatre so I look forward to meeting you all again.

90.   Ladies and gentlemen thank you.  End